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engine light 1-4


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Old 08-24-2008, 04:04 PM   #1
 
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Default engine light 1-4

Hello,
I need some assistance. Today I had to install a new battery in my 1991 348. No big deal. Car started right up nothing out of the ordinary. Went for a short test drive all is good. Went back out for a cruise and after about 20 miles the check engine 1-4 light came on. Car seemed to run fine .no overheating started right up again. Took it home am\nd let it sit a few hours. Went back out started and no light. Went for another drive and after about 15 miles the 1-4 light came on again/
. The other thing is when you turn the ignition key off the 1-4 light stays illuminated for a few seconds. Any ideas?
Thanks,
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Old 11-25-2008, 11:47 PM   #2
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Had the same problem on my 348.

It could be a bad Cat ECU.

First thing you need to do is to swap the cats over. There's one on each side of the car by the rear suspension strut. If the other lights come on then it's definetly the ECU.

If the problem is the same bank, it could be the O2 sensor.

I ended up diconnecting mine in the end and forgot about it. Takes 5 seconds to do. Might not be a good idea if you have the original cats though.
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Old 11-26-2008, 12:29 AM   #3
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Whoa whoa whoa

First when you disconnected and restarted did you reset meaning did you let the car idle for min 10 min or until both fans kick in without depressing the gas pedal it has to go threw it's parameters.

Second if it persists pull the codes and determine that it is not serious. Most of the time it is not.

If it is not anything serious reset your CEL. To do the following that I suggested do a search to find how to pull the codes and reset or check out this

http://www.club348.com/technical/Tech/348.html

This is full of any questions and answers you could possibly have, look under ECU's ecu codes and check engine lights or CEL.


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Old 08-14-2010, 05:22 AM   #4
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I had the same thing happen to me last night....nice....and only after 2 weeks of ownership....(but without the battery change thing).

She was strong, no engine power loss, I did notice the temp about going a little bit over the mid mark (first time)
The only thing is I drove it home, it was late, I parked it and im going to check it later today.


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Old 08-14-2010, 06:53 AM   #5
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Just don't get nervous...its usually just a burp or minor issue.


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Old 08-14-2010, 11:53 AM   #6
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Well, took it out today, light still on, after the warmup, then a drive, 5 mins later....light out...all gone...or is it? but drove it for another 2 hours and it never came back and I did 3 stops and it never came back either on restart. So i guess it was a burp.

I still love this car....and she will get a major at the end of Sept or so before the winter.



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Old 08-15-2010, 02:32 AM   #7
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DO NOT PANIC seriously, I have had my car do many strange things 99% of the time it is nothing serious. If it happens again turn off the car for a period of time just like you did, restart and take her out for an Italian tune up. What this means is hit the highway and open her up, for some reasons this seems to cure many hiccups .

If it persist use the kill switch, keep off for ten min then reconnect and reset the parameters, turn the car on and do not touch the gas pedal, let idle for 15min or till fans kick in. if continues pull the codes.


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Old 08-16-2010, 07:12 AM   #8
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Cool thanks Roberto.....


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Old 08-16-2010, 09:18 AM   #9
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I agree on the ECU reset. CATs going out on a batter change I guess could happen but only if you fried an ECU. Some can correct me, but
- Reset the ECUs by turning the battery connect swiitch to the off position for about 5min. then back on.
- turn key ON [not to the starting but ON position] for about 30+-60seconds. The lights on the dash as you mention should go through a small sequence of checking all the items.
- THEN turn on car and let idle and stay idle for about 5+ min. Overkill but you should be good to go. The lights should, once again, go through the sequencing of checking components. You'll see the 1-4 and 5-8 lights on, then off. If they stay on after the start, might want to try the above again.
- slow run, < 3k RPM until fully warmed, might want to skip 2nd gear too. After the temps are up, depending on external internal temps etc. or about 10-20 min. you should be able to drive it the way intended. Proper engin warming is critical too.

I'll stay away from sensor and CAT problems until the above seems to be addressed.
My two cents.


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Old 08-16-2010, 09:43 AM   #10
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Why aren't we pulling code before the reset and Italian tune up just in case its a bigger issue?

We know its not Cat ECU's because they are CEL's not SDL's...right?


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Old 08-16-2010, 11:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saint Bastage View Post
Why aren't we pulling code before the reset and Italian tune up just in case its a bigger issue?

We know its not Cat ECU's because they are CEL's not SDL's...right?

Good point Lane


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Old 08-19-2010, 07:00 PM   #12
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Well, she did it to me two more times on two separate days fully warmed. I noticed when im stuck in traffic or just cruising slow after a while Check Engine 1-4 kicks in. If I then drive her like hell, 5-6K RPM in 1st and 2nd, after about 10-15 mins, it goes away…..Is this her way to say spank me daddy, do it to me hard???? HAHAHA!!!!!!

Me shutting her down and restarting it does nothing. The first time it happened I went home and parked her and the next day I started her and it was on but a little while after a full warm up, I drove her hard and it went away so a shut down don’t work.

She is going in for a major in about 2 weeks so hopefully this will go away.

Not that I want to ignore the problem, but the car runs the same with or without the light, strong, stable temps, smooth idle all the way to redline. Start up when warm, absolutely no issues. But first warm up start after a day, she is as rough as a tank and won’t idle, I have to give her gas for about a minute or she stalls immediately, so a major is seriously needed.


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Last edited by Magnum6464; 08-19-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:31 PM   #13
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Well next step is to change your O2 sensors but this will be done during your major, I would also suggest checking out your cats throughly. Also get them to clean and test all fuel injectors just in case one is giving a bad spray, this would result in bad burn and causing your O2 to react and give you limp mode.


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Old 08-20-2010, 08:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saint Bastage View Post
Why aren't we pulling code before the reset and Italian tune up just in case its a bigger issue??
What tool do you need to do this?
Where can I get one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saint Bastage View Post
We know its not Cat ECU's because they are CEL's not SDL's...right?
CEL's not SDL's ???? Huh???


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Old 08-20-2010, 09:06 PM   #15
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She did it again tonight twice. But no performance loss and I noticed it happens everytime the temp goes a little over the mid mark, just a touch.

Yes it will be fixed when I will get the major done as well as the injector purge, but what O2 sensors do you use as a replacement? do you get the factory ones?

I also have performance cats on it with my Stebro exhaust.


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Old 08-21-2010, 04:22 AM   #16
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CEL's = Check Engine Lights
SDL's = Slow Down Lights

Procedure for pulling codes is listed under ECU at my348.com

To be honest here (and this is a guess), I'd suggest checking your mixture ratio at the MAF. Pull the codes first to see what you have here.

See my alternative parts thread in this section...I bumped it to the top for you. I can't say I have any experience with the Walker O2 sensors, but everyone seems to like them better. The following form aonther source, haven't confirmed it myself.

Factory fit O2 sensors from Walker (part no. 250-24040) available here:
http://oxygensensors.com/catalog.php?&pkey=1103814
for $87.50 with free shipping, and no splicing necessary...


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Last edited by Saint Bastage; 08-21-2010 at 05:08 AM.
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Old 08-21-2010, 06:25 AM   #17
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Awesome Bas....thanks.....


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Old 08-21-2010, 06:46 AM   #18
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First off congrats on your purchase!!
I have been offline for awhile and have a lot of catching up to do around here..

I had the same problem a couple of month's ago Mario. CEL Light came on rpm's were irratic and then my SDL 1-4 came on, basically shutting down that whole bank. I pulled the codes and they were the O2 Sensors.

I had to order mine from the USA too, There were none in Canada at the time. But she's running great since then. Roberto is right too, I took her out for a spirited drive and she runs like a dream now.

Hope this helps and Congrats again!

Cheers
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Old 08-28-2010, 04:56 AM   #19
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Thanks FBI

Well, I didn't fix my cold start problem but I did fix this CEL 1-4. both my Mass Air Flow Sensors were way off and more so in the 1-4 side as both running too lean.

I could then assume that by being lean it raised my temp in the exhaust and giving weird effects to other sensors. Once I fixed it, no more CEL's since. For a few days I have been going out for reg rides and last night I went for a 4 hour drive and not even once did it pop up.

Before it was 3-4 times a night. I also beleive that overheating exhaust kills sensors therefore changing O2's all the time is not the main cause.

It was so easy to fix even my wife said I can do that and it's only a 10 minutes job each? It took more time removing the little screws than the fix....hehehe!!!!

That's my 2 cents and sticking to it...LOL but now I have two O2's on order and they should arrive this coming week....so now I have 2 spare parts...LOL.

MAF Tuneup


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Old 10-30-2011, 07:32 AM   #20
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Good info to Know, thanks!!!
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