[Gcalo]

Clean oil is very important to all Ferrari engines and in particular the 360.

When cold it runs at very high pressures to ensure full lubrication. This means you need clean oil and oil thin enough to get the necessary films to the necessary moving parts.

The 360 needs the OEM UFI oil filter. It's not cheap but critical. Oil filter housings can expand with heat and pressure. The UFI's are built for this. Try an off brand and you'll be spending $25,000 to repair your engine.

The system holds 12 quarts when dry but you'll never get all of that out and you'll never get all of that in unless the engine is a full tear down.

During a change you'll get in about 10 quarts +/-.

And always check final oil level with the engine running and up to full temp. During a change put in about 9 litres and run the car to full temp. Check repeatedly as you gradually add the additional reguired oil. Overfilling is disastrous to these systems.

It's best to do on a lift but if not you'll need jack stands for the rear. You'll need to remove the under pan to get at the small tranny filter.

Of critical importance is torquing the filter to 25 Nm or about 18.5 ft-lbs. This is a must and having Hill Engineering's OFT-02 filter wrench is invaluable.

If you value your engine you will purchase this tool.

I use a Ferrari P/N 183962 magnetic gearbox plug as the engine sump plug. It will pick up any magnetic particles that are in there. They are not cheap either.

You also need 12 and 14 mm hex wrenches to remove the drain plugs. These also work on the tranny drain and refill.

I recommend Redline 5W40 oil. It is fantastic and cures problems. It is fully synthetic oil unlike some other so called "synthetic" oils.

I have the .pdf oil change procedure.

Happy to send out to anyone with an e-mail address.

[alvav]

Please email me PDF. leov@hondasj.ca
Thanks

[Granucci]

actually Greg you should post a pdf to this thread .

[Gcalo]

Great suggestion, Rik

Here it is.

Did not know the system would accept .pdf's!

[Pooya]

Originally Posted by Gcalo

Great suggestion, Rik

Here it is.

Did not know the system would accept .pdf's!

Is it fully applicable to F430?

[Gcalo]

No 430 is different

I do not have it presently as a single .pdf.

[Pooya]

Thanks for sharing! scares me even if the dealer does it right! I'm going to parking to check oil level now! with these details you've made me more careful about this!

[Gcalo]

Always good to be knowledgeable and checking another's work never hurts.

[StefVan]

Pooya, if you're interested about servicing the F430, have a look to this chapter of the F430 book :

F430 50.000km/31.000 miles service - Ferrari Life

I described there all the different steps including changing engine / gearbox oil

Always keep in mind that between the min and max level, there is only 1.5l oil difference. Even at the min level, you still have 8.5L of oil in the engine! So there is absolutely no risk of not having enough oil in the engine, even at the min level. When you top up with oil, make 100% sure to never reach the max level (warm engine and idling) as this would have serious consequences if you did overfill with oil. My oil level is always half way between the min and max marker.

[StefVan]

Originally Posted by gcalo

always good to be knowledgeable and checking another's work never hurts.

++11

[Gcalo]

Good references, Stef

I probably put 430 oil change in wrong area! DAH!

[StefVan]

Lol

[Mikelong]

May I ask...
why do we remove the "gear box cover" when perform eng&oil filter change?
how does the gear box in relation with the eng oil?
thanks.

Mike

[StefVan]

Hi Mike,

He's the principle of the 360/430 dry sump:


1 Oil Separator
2 Thermistor on gearbox
3 Scavenge and delivery pump
4 Suction screen filter
5 Pressure regulating valve
6 Oil filter cartridge
7 Oil pressure transmitter
8 Oil/water exchanger
9 Mesh filter

The oil tank with suction chamber is cast in the gearbox and has a separator with cylindrical degassing chamber in the upper part with centrifugal cyclone effect. That's why we have to drain engine oil from 2 locations, one drain plug under the engine and the main plug under the gearbox where the oil tank is integrated.

On these pictures, you can see very well the oil delivery pipe between the gearbox and the engine (to the oil filter)




As the oil tank is integrated in the gearbox, when the gearbox has to be removed, engine oil must first be drained.

[Pooya]

Originally Posted by StefVan

Pooya, if you're interested about servicing the F430, have a look to this chapter of the F430 book :

F430 50.000km/31.000 miles service - Ferrari Life

I described there all the different steps including changing engine / gearbox oil

Always keep in mind that between the min and max level, there is only 1.5l oil difference. Even at the min level, you still have 8.5L of oil in the engine! So there is absolutely no risk of not having enough oil in the engine, even at the min level. When you top up with oil, make 100% sure to never reach the max level (warm engine and idling) as this would have serious consequences if you did overfill with oil. My oil level is always half way between the min and max marker.

Thanks alot +++1
As the temperature and the way to drive on this car can really vary I really like to have a photo or explanation about the oil's color. how it should really seem.
the workshop of course says bring the car when it's 30k kms (now is 21000 and oil just changed)
I'm not sure if the oil keeps quality till 30000 kms. in this climate in UAE.

[Mikelong]

Thank you so much Stef and Pooya.
I appreciate the lesson here. Could not be any clearer.
I have not reach my oil change interval yet, but this is sure info and things to know, prior reaching for the rachet, socket, and so.
I have not purchase any special tool yet for the job, but I have also hear lots of thing about torque spec. As you mentioned and explained how they are critical. I will keep that in mind as well.
thanks again...

Mike

[waterboy222]

Is it more disastrous to start the engine low on oil or start the engine overfilled with oil?

Being that you can get all but 2 qts of oil out and you add 9, 11 qts would be too low and 12 would be too high. Ive heard so many horror stories of overfilling the 360 and floating valves.

Can you explain what happens when you don't put enough oil in and what happens if you put too much oil in? Will allowing it to drain overnight get the other 2 qts out?

[StefVan]

It is disastrous to overfill with oil, no doubt. Even with a low level of oil, there is still 85% of oil left which is large enough to run your engine. Before the oil pressure starts dropping, you really have to be much lower on oil, well lower than the minimum mark of the oil dipstick. When you change your engine oil, just add 8 to 8.5L maximum and then top up progressively up to the point your oil level is between the min and max mark (while engine is running warm).

[Pooya]

Just to be sure. can you guys comment on the picture please?

1) Is it necessary to fill oil more than that?
2) Any comments on the oil's color?


The oil is changed in less than 1000 Kms in dealer.
Engine's oil temp was on 70 cel

[StefVan]

Pooya, if you are showing the dipstick oil level while the engine was running, than, yes, you can add a bit oil put add only 0.5L, wait a bit and take the oil level again still with the engine running. Stop adding oil when you reach half way between min and max.

The color looks fine to me but mine would be a bit clearer after only 1000km. But I change oil + oil filter more frequently as I should